On that starry, starry night,
You took your life, as lovers often do.
But I could have told you, Vincent,
This world was never meant for one
As beautiful as you.
Don McLean’s hit song “Vincent” captured for us the agony suffered by Vincent Van Gogh as he tried to live his life. I have stood many evenings in the village of St Remy de Provence in the south of France looking at this painted scene, and then being transported within the image of this scene as captured by Vincent Van Gogh in 1889.
In June I travelled just over an hour by train outside of Paris to the village of Auvers sur Oise. Vincent had been suffering very badly from depression in the south of France, and his brother Theo had helped arrange for him to travel to Auvers sur Oise to live in the same town as a doctor friend, Doctor Gachet, who was well versed in treating such medical conditions.
Doctor Gachet had arranged for Vincent to stay in the local Auberge, the Auberge Ravoux. He was offered a bedroom upstairs, and used to take all his meals in the dining room on the ground floor.
On arrival in Auvers sur Oise my wife and I walked past the church that Vincent had made so famous in his paintings, and continued to the cemetery where he lies alongside his brother Theo. From here we walked across the wheat fields under the scorching summer sun. When in the middle of this field we paused. The wheat was like a sea of golden sheaths gently swaying in the warm breeze. Overhead flew black menacing crows. This was the last scene Vincent Van Gogh knew, and this was the last scene that he painted. Vincent shot himself. He was carried back to the Auberge Ravoux to his bedroom where they attempted to revive him. He was carried from the Auberge through the dining room in a plain pine coffin.
Here lies...
"They are immense expanses of grain under clouded sky, and I have not hesitated to try to express melancholy and extreme loneliness" Vincent Van Gogh July 1890
We walked back to the Auberge Ravoux to the same dining room. This dining room has been preserved not only to remember the life of one of the greatest artists ever, but to celebrate and preserve the cuisine of the late 19th century. A visit to this dining room is a treat of monumental proportions!
We walked into the dining room, and it was as if we had stepped in to a page of a story book, or directly into the year 1890 – the elegant table and chairs, the exquisitely crafted tiled floor. The whole place gives you this aura of homeliness and a feeling of comfort, a place important for your body and soul. Today we were going to sit down and eat!
Dining Room at the Auberge Ravoux in Auvers sur Oise
We had been longing to eat here for many years. We had a wide choice of dishes, all of which were prepared as if by your grand-mother for her favourite grand-child!
Entrees:
Scallops with Baby Artichokes, Mushroom Cream and Truffles
Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus
Marinated Herring and Salmon with Potatoes en Vinaigrette
Medley of Exotic Mushrooms with Hazelnuts
Marinated Herring and Salmon - heavenly!
Main:
Seven Hour Lamb Ravoux style with Sautéed Potatoes and Smoked Salmon slab
Fricassee of Rabbit of Rabbit with White Wine, Herbs, Pearl Onions and Sautéed Potatoes
Burgundy Style Beef Stew
Seven Hour Cooked Lamb - cooked to be so tender it should be able to be eaten with a spoon!
Potatoes Dauphinois
Dessert:
Dark Chocolate Soufflé Cake with Crème Anglaise
Cherry Clafouti
Warm Tarte Tatin with Crème Fraiche
Auberge Ravoux in Auvers sur Oise
Needless to say every mouthful, and every local flavour were a treat to the senses – I long to return to let other travellers with me experience this thrill.
In my business in designing holidays for travellers in France, I often have people say to me “I don’t need to go to Paris as we had two nights there in 1995, and we did everything then”.
The visit to Auberge Ravoux near Paris is fortunately not part of the mass tourism market, and our visit here reminded me of all the things that are good about life; family dinners, friends and love, and of the comforts of a warm comforting home. It also reminds me of those two day tourists, and all they miss out on while checking off their check list of mass-tourist destinations!
“In the world there are a few unique places that in their essential nature embody all of the emotions of a period. The Auberge Ravoux is one such place” (quote “Van Gogh’s Table” by Alexandra Leaf and Fred Leeman).
One happy diner! That's me - but why are the wine glasses empty?
To get here:
From Paris: RER C to Pontoise (St-Ouen L’Aumone), then SNCF to Auvers sur Oise (approx. 1h30)
Cook Book: Van Gogh’s Table at the Auberge Ravoux, by Alexandra Leaf and Fred Leeman (ISBN I-57965-182-8)
Visit: Auberge Ravoux
What a great post. I love Vincent Van Gogh. you must have felt very privileged to have had the opportunity to eat here and walk the areas that he painted.
Julia
Julia, how kind of you to leave a comment! Walking around the areas that painters painted is very moving. I have also recently spent time at Auguste Renoir’s home, and it leaves a similar impression on you. Hugely privileged!
Such beautiful paintings but what a sad life he had!
You should write a book John as you have such a great knowledge of the history of France and make it come alive for those of us that read & see these places?
Sheryl, you are too kind!! Mind you a book would be a fun plan!! Don’t hold your breath though, it might take some time!
Always enjoy reading your blog. This article was so interesting – how forward thinking of the locals to preserve the place for the future!
Cheers,
Priscilla
Thanks Priscilla for your comments. It is very special that the place has been preserved. You will have to try visiting one day! Sadly for some it is generally only open from April through to November, but even outside of these times we’ve loved going there just to walk around and see the scenes that Van Gogh painted. The tourist office has set up some good route markers showing the paintings in relation to the real situation.
What a great post – thank you so much for introducing us to this place. I must admit, I didn’t know much about Vincent Van Gogh and his history. Now I know where he dined!
Thanks Shirlene for your comments. With your love of food you’ll just have to “bookmark” the place and go there one day!
I love Vincent Van Gough and knowing you were in the same places that he was in, while dining on scrumptious food? I don’t think it gets any better than that. I’m surprised (but glad) that this place isn’t more popular with tourists.
Thanks Laurel. I think this place is the perfect “tourist” place to experience food and history. I think that it is relatively unknown because of the 1h30 it takes to train there. Tourists are always in too much of a hurry for such a thing – if only they’d slow down!
Wonderfully evocative John, and looks like a pretty sumptous feast too! Seems odd that more tourists don’t make the pilgrimage. Thanks for posting about it.
Thanks joolsonthetrain.com for your comments! I’d add Auvers to your list of places to visit next time you’re in Paris!
I don’t really know much at all about Van Gogh, so this was a super informative and interesting post to read. And that food looks scrumptious.
What a sad, yet beautiful post. I too love to take walks back in time. Amazing how powerful they can be.
~ Emme
Thanks Emme. What I love about France and Europe is that you can take walks back in time at every corner – there is a surprise and story at every step! Today it was Van Gogh, but tomorrow it could be….
Van Gogh is one of my favs- the colors, the movement- it really is so easy to love his paintings. This seems like a fantastic dinner- that cheesey thing would have been the first thing I put into my mouth!
Yes Jade, so easy to love his paintings. But amazing that he only ever sold one painting in his life!
Very interesting read! I really admire Van Gogh, so it’s nice to learn more about his life. Plus, that food looks delicious!
Thanks Michael. Food, art and history – just for the main course!! Perfect!
It’s always a treat when I pass by Van Gogh’s apartment in Montmartre that he shared with Theo during his short time in Paris. So I can only imagine how great it is to be in the same place where he finished his life and career and to soak in that history.
Of all the spirits to share a meal with, you can’t do much better than Van Gogh!
Thanks Corey. Yes I too love Rue Lepic in Montmartre for Van Gogh’s and others apartments. I’ve been lucky to visit nearly all the places where Van Gogh lived and I get chocked up every time I visit the asylum in St Remy de Provence where he spent a year being cared for.
Sounds like you are like me and really enjoy food on your travels! One of the best things about our trip to Paris was the wonderful food! We had the best steak in some sort of pepper sauce in a sidewalk cafe and the hot chocolate at the Eiffel Tower was the best I have ever tasted, with real whipped cream on it.
After your last post i was expecting you to tell me that Vincent was your waiter!
I cook some mean potatoes Dauphinoise if I say so myself, but those ones look infuriatingly good…
Sadly Robin, Vincent wasn’t my waiter – he’d just been taken out in a box!!!
I just read this quote about an impressionist painter. I am not sure if it applies to Van Gogh but it seems too:
“Don’t paint what is there, paint what you see.”
When I first started looking at art, I hated impressionism. However, I now have a greater appreciation for it even though it isn’t my favorite.
That’s a good quote Jeremy, but he’d change it to “Paint what you feel”. That’s especially true with Picasso. Someone once told me to paint a scene – I freaked out knowing I’d be the worst!!!
Sounds like a wonderfully melancholic place. Thanks for sharing it.
You do indeed look like a happy diner, John! Who wouldn’t be after such a wonderful day following in the footsteps of Van Gogh. I’d love to do the same. And I must try the Potatoes Dauphinois!
For those that have read this article on Vincent Van Gogh in Auvers sur Oise, it is interesting to read the reports in the media today about research done in France attempting to show that Vincent did not shoot himself, but was killed accidently by a couple of young boys playing with a faulty rifle! I love it how stories develop and change over the years! No doubt there will be more contradicting research to follow!
What a great experience to visit this place that was meant to help Van Gogh. The food in France is heavenly and that restaurant looks delicious. I’m sure that’s a memory you will keep.
Hi John,
One more thing that goes on my “must do” list. Thanks.
Thanks Gar for your comments!
What a wonderful descriptive blog. I’m going to give the link to my artist friend Pat McFarlane. Just last night at my Christmas party he was speaking of Vincent, likens himself somehow to Vincent, and he is, himself, a brilliant artist, yet misunderstood by many and not promoted like he should be.
I must also say, I am hungry now, after looking at those mouth-watering photos and reading the menu.
I have spent very little time in France, just passing through once on my way to and from Spain. Must try to make sure I return for a lengthier stay!
Thanks Ruth for your comments. I guess the life of an artist can be difficult, but where would we be without their legacies – remind your friend of that?!
My visit to Auvers sur Oise is one of my favorite memories! It really opened my eyes to art and Van Gogh. This is a not to be missed part of France.
Debbie I’m impressed that you have been to Auvers sur Oise – I’ve never met anyone else who has been there!!